Neal Martin: 91 "a complex nose of black plum, mulberry, licorice and baking powder scents that are well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black fruit but there is a serious structure, a firm backbone to this Morgon that renders it more masculine than its peers. It does not quite have the length of the Morgon Les Charmes this year, but it demonstrates impressive delineation and a wonderful saline, marine-influenced finish that lingers just long enough.
"Jean-Marc Burgaud is just outside Villie-Morgon, not far from the Cote du Py, where he owns several parcels of vine. He told me that he started in 1989, the same year that he married his wife Christine. They own about 19 hectares of vine: 13 hectares in Morgon, complemented by another five hectares of Beaujolais Villages and another in Regnie. Though not certified, he has not used chemicals in the vineyard for over a decade, the vines planted high density (10,000 bush vines per hectare) in order to enhance fruit concentration, and he usually picks later than many other growers. He usually practices a semi-carbonic maceration with regular pumping over in order to keep the fruit moist. The wines are raised in concrete vats, although the Cote du Py cuvées see partial barrel aging. Structured and concentrated wines. Stylistically they lean toward Burgundy: more serious Beaujolais wines that will reward cellaring."